Two steps forward, one step backwards

It is a challenge to bend Gargraves track.  I can bend an "S" curve and it will hold its shape just fine.  But an O-42 or even an O-54 won't stay.  And if I adjust the ties to straighten them, I lose even more of the curve.  Honestly, the problem is that I am trying to pre-shape track to glue it down, rather than screw or nail it down as is recommended.  The solution:  I am buying Gargraves sectional track for the curves and using flex-track for the straights, "S" curves and a few short curves on the turnouts.  Time to call Just Trains of Delaware.

In the meantime, I made up 42" and 54" diameter cardboard templates to lay out the track plan center lines.  The mainlines have 4" spacing on the straights, and 4 1/2" on the curves.  John brought over some 60' and 70' passenger cars and an MTH Allegheny to test track clearances.   I put the 70 footers on the 2 mainline tracks and I have an inch of clearance on the curves (real inches, not scale inches!). Of course, when I couple the cars on the same track, the angle from car to car would only be seen in a prototypical derailment . . .







I am using Woodland Scenics trackbed and it is so easy to work with.  It is partially split and I use a box cutter to split it the rest of the way, then spread Woodland Scenics Foam Tack Glue on the back of a half section and lay it along the centerline.  I pin it down with Woodland Scenics Foam Nails, then repeat the above for the other half section of roadbed.  It goes really fast.  Say goodbye to cork roadbed . .

Adding an extra foot (why planning ahead would have helped)

The benchwork extra foot is done and installed.  It took nearly as much work as the original 5X10.  So much for afterthoughts . . .

I am getting ready to lay out the track plan and glue down woodland scenics roadbed.   Also need to build a wooden jig or 2 to bend the Gargraves (a strong recommendation from what I read).  I am still not sure how well this is going to work on top of 2” of foam since I can’t screw down the track.  Straights will be fine.  For the curves, I am hoping that if I pre-bend the track and weight and glue it, it will be ok.  I will try a section, and if it fails miserably, I will pull off the foam and maybe add another 1/8” underlayment and put the roadbed and track on that.  I’ll have to give up on most of the below grade scenery, but I’ll cope. To be honest, a lot of things will be easier if I pull the foam off, but I have a pathological tendency to avoid doing things the easy way.

New Track Plan

I played around with my "elevated loop crossing over a flat loop" track plan.  Tried to connect the two at one end, but it just wasn't working.  So, now I am back on the web looking for a new track plan.  Good news:  I found exactly what I want.  Bad news:  I have to make my 5X10 table into a 6X10 table.  Out comes the saw . . .

Here is the layout photos and plan:

Mike's O Gauge Train Site

He did a tremendous job of modeling and design in a small space.  You would never know it was only 6X10 from the photos.  The layout even has a dual track mainline.

I made some changes to his plan to allow O-42 curves on the inner loop and O-54 on the outer.  But I am very grateful to Mike and I want to give him credit for his design and inspiration.